Pallade Veneta - Tory Burch evokes sport - but not sportswear - at New York Fashion Week

Freedom and movement were reflected in loose-fitting wool pants and wrap dresses, while power shone through in the assembly of different pieces, fabrics and cuts on the models marching down the catwalk.

"It's more about the spirit and the essence of sport," Burch, whose shows have become a staple of New York Fashion Week, told AFP of the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

That means it's about "movement, about freedom, precision" as a starting point, she explained, adding: "The word 'synchronicity' was something I thought about."

Burch, who this year celebrated the 20th anniversary of her eponymous fashion house, said: "I wanted to be careful with not having too many different prints, but I wanted it to come across some textures and the fabrics and the color well."

Among the standouts was an ensemble of ultra-light suede pants with a rope belt and a skin-tight sweater patterned in red and white.

A transparent white jersey shirt with ruffles and overly long sleeves was paired with its formal counterpart, brown wool pants.

Once again, the Pennsylvania native broke from the style that made her famous, a combination of preppy New England with a touch of the bohemian.

A regular at New York's iconic venues, Burch chose the top floor of the former Domino sugar factory in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, with its breathtaking view over Manhattan, for her show.

Along with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, the show was attended by actresses Michelle Williams and Elizabeth Olsen.

"I want to have a dialogue, but I want to keep evolving and taking it in new directions," the designer said, adding: "I think it's important to have some continuity."

O.Pileggi--PV